I only use Optics Pro for the few occasions where I need its superior noise processing and lens correction where you sometimes get a slightly wider scene coverage due to better lens calibration. Thanks for the tip but the way I'm reading both the ad and email, the August 31st, deadline only applies to getting the discount on DxO Optics Pro v11 Elite edition.
I also seem to remember re-installing the free v8 edition almost a year after downloading it and activating it without problem. August Ihre E-Mail-Adresse an. Thanks Toermalijn for clarification. My German is a bit rusty. The EF-M 32mm F1. Find out what's new, what it's like to use and how it compares to its peers in our review in progress. The S1 and S1R are Panasonic's first full-frame mirrorless cameras so there's a plenty to talk about.
We've taken a look at the design and features of both cameras and have some initial impressions, as well. Here's the one we recommend Aimed at sports shooters it promises improved AF, including advanced subject recognition, along with the highest-ever rated image stabilization system. If you're looking for a high-quality camera, you don't need to spend a ton of cash, nor do you need to buy the latest and greatest new product on the market. In our latest buying guide we've selected some cameras that while they're a bit older, still offer a lot of bang for the buck.
These entry level cameras should be easy to use, offer good image quality and easily connect with a smartphone for sharing. Whether you've grown tired of what came with your DSLR, or want to start photographing different subjects, a new lens is probably in order. We've selected our favorite lenses for Sony mirrorlses cameras in several categories to make your decisions easier. Submit a News Tip! Reading mode: Light Dark.
Login Register. Best cameras and lenses All forums Retouching Change forum. Started Jun 17, Discussions. Jun 17, Sony a Sony E mm F3. I'll try it, check compatibility with the D, and report back. Bobthearch's gear list: Bobthearch's gear list. Bobthearch wrote: Code is not working Got it going,thanks. You're opening a huge can of worms with that question! Download and instal it and form your own opinion. It won';t cost you anything. I am considering whether to add PhotoLab to my tool bag and it is important to consider workflow.
Is this ok? Thank you very much for your answer, Rod. I find this to be immature software — nice ideas, but not very useable yet. Help is practically non-existent 3. Does not play nicely with other software — no support for Photoshop plugins and interchanging with Photoshop is poor. Dear Andre Nel, what do you mean by raw conversion? To jpeg? What is so much better with the DPP4 conversion? Many thanks Rod — very detailed, but yet to the point. Your review convinced me to try DxO and finally I also bought this very good software.
Your review reflects exactly my observations. Photolab Elite is a perfect RAW converter with local adjustments, a good indexed-folder navigation, but by no means is it a complete DAM. This way speed is not issue for me. After 4 month I have now concluded for PL to be my only raw-processor. Both programs are very nice additions for culling, tagging and archiving my pictures: XnView is the most powerful free-of-charge DAM tool, but a bit difficult to learn.
One1 Photoraw is very good value for money and offers far more than just DAM-functionality. The only problem that One1 need to fix is the uncorrect usage of uppercase words in its metadata section. I really need keywords like London, Berlin instead of london, berlin. I hope they will fix this glitch soon.
Can you use DxO Photolab as your standalone photo editing software? Anything else needed? I think DxO PhotoLab is now very good indeed, and the addition of local adjustment tools does make it a fully-functioning standalone image editor. Looking for software that supports bpc workflow and can display images in bpc out to a bit monitor Dell UPQ via Nvidia Quadro card. Any feedback appreciated. About the speed of export with prime denoise: DXO is one of the very few softwares that has a clean and efficient programming; it uses all resources available of the CPU.
Just give it enough rtesources. Fortunately this does not ruin you anymore today. My PC has an Intel i9 processor: Adobe, Corel, etc. It can do things, such as object removal. It knows my camera, my lenses and their optical quirks and corrects them automatically. Prime noise reduction is great, especially with the fine grained noise you get with a 42mp sensor. Prime noise reduction takes time and sucks up CPU resources but you can continue processing other photos while that happens, On my PC, it takes about a minute to export an image with prime noise reduction.
Local adjustment is a newer feature for me. Like, I want to micro contrast one part of an image without having the blurred background get ugly. I need more practice with it. I used to use Picasa to organize my photos, but Google pulled the plug. Your email address will not be published. Notify me of follow-up comments by email.
Notify me of new posts by email. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Skip to content Verdict: The big story in this version is the inclusion of new selective local adjustment tools. You can use as many U points as you like in the same image. The Auto Mask tool is quick and effective, though it can sometimes leave edge haloes around object outlines.
You can also clone out small objects and apply a Miniature defocus effect in the Elite version. So is it any good? Using DxO ClearView with the new Graduated Filter lets you enhance skies without compromising the rest of the picture. A couple of thoughts… 1. Agree to disagree 3. It just snapped in without any of the aberrations, and sharper, too! At this magnification, the complete image will print at 44" 1.
DxO PhotoLab review
The two images move a bit because of the distortion correction. If I wanted, I could have unchecked the distortion correction just to show the chromatic correction, but tough! I made these shots the first day I got the software, and in full auto mode to boot. This shows how DxO can make this pig into a prince. Roll your mouse over to see before and after the fully automatic DxO correction. Let me save your eyes from squinting at this little web-sized image.
This result looks perfectly straight, even on my 30" monitor , which I can't show here. Crop from Canon 15mm on Full-Frame 5D. The straight lines after conversion are perfect; better than those from an uncorrected ultra-wide lens! That's the full-auto conversion. My Canon lenses don't record distance data for DxO, now that I've read the manual I realize that I could have input the distance and gotten an even more perfect conversion. In Auto it converts the fisheye images to fill the same image size, yet fisheye lenses record even more to the left and right if you want it all.
This saves money. On a full-frame camera, the converted fisheye gives the same angle of view as a 12mm rectilinear lens. On a Canon 1. You'll have to close and restart DxO for your choice to take effect. Once in Expert or Guided, click a tab under the Enhance tab to select guided or expert. Click a button [Expert mode], Enhance tab, DxO Optics tab, check Distortion, check Max Image under the checked Distortion tab and you can get the unplugged conversion, which goes even wider:. Canon 15mm on Full-Frame 5D. Roll mouse over to see after DxO in maximum width mode.
The ease with which it works belies just how insanely wide this is - you'd need a nonexistent 7. It's crazy; it includes a horizontal angle of almost degrees, and does it without vignetting or distortion. Here's another hand-held snap made while carpet shopping with the wife the first night I got this:. This shot of a kitchen covers 45 feet 15m horizontally, and I was only 9 feet 3m away from the far wall! That calculates to degrees horizontally, which is the same as a rotating panoramic camera like my Noblex.
Each of these images has the same pixel height as the original file, and is even wider horizontally in this Max mode. Of course the sides get softer than the center because they must be stretched further. Try for yourself and see if you like the results. I love them! Fisheye lenses squish the sides together to create the fisheye look, and DxO very accurately pulls those sides back out to look straight again.
Detail is lost when the image is squished by the lens, since the camera's sensor can't magically increase its resolution at the sides to match the squishing. This isn't an issue with software, it's an issue with reality. The sides look about the same, and the converted fisheye has less distortion than the unconverted 14mm. Of course I use DxO to help with my 14mm, but that's not saving you any money.
The biggest reason I usually use my 14mm lens instead of my fisheye is artistic visualization: In the default mode both systems give similar results. They give results the same pixel size as the original file with the same angle of view, equivalent to a 12mm lens on a full-frame camera. The Max mode works differently between Canon and Nikon. These extra-wide images are from my Canon fisheye and full-frame camera. My Nikon It doesn't do anything to your original files, JPG or raw. It always saves a new, corrected file wherever you prefer.
I save the corrected files back into the same folder, which makes it trivial to keep track of it all. The results starting from. CR2 files had duller color and were less sharp than the same images converted from JPG. I pump up the color settings in-camera, so I suspect DxO isn't reading those settings when converting the CR2 files.
Beats me why the CR2 results are softer, but just as well, since I hate the hassle of raw. In raw's favor, the lateral chromatic aberration correction was better. Only the camera maker's raw conversion software will match the colors and tones of the JPG perfectly. Every other brand of software will make the tones and colors look slightly different. If you shoot raw and prefer different raw conversion software than DxO, use the raw converter of your choice to open the raw files, save them, and open the saved tiffs or jpgs in DxO. I figured most of it out before I found the user's manual.
This is excellent! It all makes sense, which I wish all software did. You still need to make your file selections and settings inside of Optics Pro.
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It does not come up in the Filter menu. This isn't as much of a pain as I expected. I first missed the ability to process an image in Photoshop as a filter. A day later I realized that DxO does such great stuff that I usually batch-process entire folders from inside DxO Optics Pro, catalog the results in iView , and then select what I want to use in Photoshop from within iView. DxO converts from camera original files. Do your DxO corrections first and do any Photoshop work next. I shoot hundreds of shots at a time, and then use iView to sort and dump.
I put each shoot in a folder. If I'm going to use DxO, I batch-convert everything that folder. God Bless DxO: I set it up, and let it process while I work on something else. I have DxO drop the new converted files into the same folder. When it's complete, I re-import the new files into my catalog. It's trivial to flip through the before and after files in iView. A clever feature I wish I had in Photoshop is the ability to click on the plus or minus on each side of a slider to increment or decrement each by one unit.
I can click while I'm watching the preview image.
I need this for keystoning correction. A secret in recent versions of Photoshop is the ability to click over a wide area around a slider or its name and drag to change the slider. In Photoshop you don't have to hit the slider itself. Unfortunately one cannot use level horizon first; if you do, you can't use the geometry controls.
Either do your corrective rotations in Photoshop, or you have to be cagey about the order in which you do them in DxO. I found myself saving a DxO project a file with all the instructions of what and how you plan to process , and reopening it again to let me retry the horizon fixes if I needed to go back and reset the perspective issues. DxO uses many files called modules. These modules are the data specific to a camera and lens combination. This data allows the software to correct the image perfectly, as far as I can see.
If you don't have the appropriate module loaded, you'll see a red camera icon above the image on the bottom pane showing the images you've selected for processing. The software will cheerfully process the images as best it can, but won't warn if you or I forgot to download the correct module. The way I figured out I was missing a module was when my fisheye images shot on a borrowed Canon 1D Mk II still looked like fisheye images after conversion.
I found it easy to get a new module when I needed it. You'll see what you have. Click the lower left box to get more.
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It was easy. I'm on Mac; menu locations may vary on Windows. If you prefer to tweak things, you can save, recall and modify your selections of what and how you intend to process as presets.
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Leaving no stone unturned, you may apply partial or excessive levels of correction for creative purposes. Ditto for Chromatic Aberration correction: Look for the slider for vignetting correction. I often prefer vignetting, which darkens the sides and corners. This is a useful artistic effect which focuses the viewer's attention on the subject and keeps his eyes from wandering off the frame. Laboratory perfection in vignetting correction can make images sterile and boring.
DxO allows you to dial-in any amount of correction, from none to full or more. Crazier still, DxO allows you to tweak the maximum lift applied to shadows in case you don't want it to bring up any noise in high ISO shots. Details are in the excellent user's manual. There is a big preview at least on my 30" monitor as I play with the variations before processing the final results.
Lenses have very slightly different distortion levels at different focus distances. That's why I try to give figures in my reviews at different distances.
No one else does, and I thought I was the only one other than lens designers who worried about this. DxO is so insanely thorough that the software corrects distortion differently depending on the focused distance! For all I know this could be a key reason Nikon's flash exposure system is so much more consistent than Canon's. I see a little yellow triangle on each image in the lower selection pane from my Canon DSLRs, meaning they are missing focus distance data.
If so, DxO presumes infinity focus, or you can select the images and tell DxO the focused distance. These DxO folks impress me - I don't know of anyone else with correction software loaded with all the real-world data that these folks do.
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DxO is smart enough to apply sharpening as needed by your exact lens and its settings at different points in the image. In other words, wide lenses that get soft in the corners wide open will have more sharpening applied in those corners as needed. DxO is applying an inverse of the MTF measured at each aperture, zoom setting and focus distance. I find that it tends to over-sharpen at the center of some images.
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No big deal, I can turn this off, or apply only a percentage of sharpening. DxO also can be used for old-fashioned pre unsharp masking. If you're not a hacker, please skip ahead before you get yourself into trouble with law enforcement. I discovered that I can trick DxO into interpreting the files as if they were shot on a D70, for which DxO has a module and which I presume has the similar imaging characteristics, by changing my D40 files' EXIF data to say it was shot on a D Don't try this at home, because you may screw up your file, and you also have now corrupted the EXIF data.
Ten years in the future, unless you document this, you'll think you made the shots on a D70 and not the D Power drain for software? Think I'm kidding? Computationally-intensive businesses like Hollywood animation studios and Google run budgets based on both power consumption and, more importantly, the cooling to deal with the power dissipated by their computers. Google's secret new data center is being built in The Dalles, Oregon, to capitalize on Oregon's cheap and plentiful hydropower, and has two giant cooling stacks to get rid of the waste energy.